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West Texas Armory is the place to send your M-14, M1
Garand and other US service rifles for repairs or custom
gunsmithing. I can do anything on them from reparkerizing to an
all out match conditioning job. Our rifles have been top scorers
at all the matches around the country since we started 5 years
ago. The M-14 and M1 Garand rifles are my specialty. I have over
20 years of US Navy, US Army and civilian experience on them and have learned the secrets of
doing the job right the first time on them.
Most of the match conditioning work I do is a
combination of the USMC style and my own style of gunsmithing. I
own all the Army manuals and have worked with some fine Army
armorers in the past but I don't do anything like they did here.
My thinking is that if the Army knew as much about rifles as
they do about wasting money then we'd still be using the
M-14. Whenever you call or EMAIL me just keep in mind I
care about making your rifle last. I'm sure, if you are a
civilian, that you don't have an endless supply of repair parts
and a few million people contributing money to buy parts with
either. The things I do different will help you in the long run
making your rifle last so future generations can enjoy the piece
of history it is. In most cases, my requirements are stricter
than the Army ever was. In some cases just different. A couple
examples are; M14 gas cylinder unitizing and M1 Garand pistons.
I never could understand why the Army MTU
armorers chose to screw together the gas group on M14 match
rifles when it disables the spindle valve. You can close that
valve to keep solvent out of the cylinder when you clean the
bore if it is done USMC style (my way) but not when it's screwed
together. You just never know when you might want to mount
a grenade launcher on yours too. I actually have a few times
with practice grenades. It's a lot of fun shooting one at a
moving tumbleweed.
M1 Garand gas pistons were not originally
made of stainless steel. If I have to replace them they are. I
machine my own using one of the 440 series stainless steels.
They are machined and ground to original specs, or to custom fit
a worn gas cylinder. (still cheaper than a new op rod and gas
cylinder) In that case the gas cylinder must be rebored and
honed to a true cylinder first. Sure it's harder to machine
stainless steel but I doubt one will ever wear out. The Army TM
also specifies no lube on the gas cylinder plugs for the Garand.
That makes no sense at all. Any machinist in his right mind
knows better than to screw two stainless steel parts together
repeatedly without some sort of antiseize compound. I use high
temp copper anti-seize on all M-14 and M-1 Garand gas plug
threads. It only takes a little but it will sure prevent
you from galling the threads one day. These are not cheap parts
anymore to replace. Both rifles need about 12-15 foot pounds
torque on the gas plug and it will never come loose.
What a lot of people don't understand is the Army, when they
wrote all those manuals, was only thinking about soldiers and
maintaining the rifles in a wartime environment. They also had
an unlimited budget for replacement parts. They never intended
for these rifles to still be working 40-100 years later so the
game has changed a little bit now. Military manuals and MILSPEC
procedures have their place but if things can be done better why
not?
We have a fully equipped machine shop and the
experience and knowledge to keep your rifles running smoothly
for years to come. I'm not just someone that knows how to read a
book and likes to tinker with guns. I am rewriting the book.
Why choose anyone else?
Some of the services we can provide are:
*STEEL BEDDING
special note on my bedding
techniques: Ask any other gunsmith out there if it is ok
to field strip your weapon after it is bedded and they will most
likely say no! Most will say never take it apart.
To me this is about the most stupid thing any
person could do. You have spent your hard earned cash on a
pretty expensive rifle and had it bedded but now you are told
never to take it apart. M1 and M-14 rifles especially NEED to be
regularly field stripped, cleaned and lubricated if you expect
it to last. My bedding technique uses Brownells steel bed and my
own special procedures that do allow easy field stripping. I
would never sell a rifle that can't be properly cleaned and I
would never tell a customer not to clean one. Some "gunsmiths"
even say it will void their warranty on the bedding if you take
it apart. Just ask yourself is that kind of customer service
something you want to spend your hard earned cash on?
I have modified and improved on military (specifically
USMC) bedding procedures over the years for these rifles and
tried and tested it on my own rifles before doing it for
customers. I field strip and clean my weapons properly every
time they go out and have never once had a problem related to
taking the action out of the stock. In fact the bedding job on
my last rifle outlasted 2 heavy match barrels. It maintained sub
MOA performance through almost 10,000 rounds. Sure the bedding
got a little loose but not enough to cause accuracy problems. It
just came out of the stock a little easier is all about the time
I replaced the barrel.
Bedding jobs are done in several variations
depending on the weapon. Short barreled 16 inch socom M1A rifles
do not need the full length pillar bedding of a 22 inch heavy
barreled sniper rifle. On these short ones the bedding can be
just as tight but more emphasis is placed on ease of maintenance
than making it super tight. These rifles tend to be fired a lot
more and a whole lot faster so they, probably more than any
other need proper cleanings if you expect it to last.
Long barreled snipers and match rifles get a
full length pillar bedding job. The entire receiver is supported
from front to rear with a few modifications to make it easier to
take apart without damage. Steel bed by it's own nature is
extremely tough but some of the places people are putting the
bedding compound are completely unnecessary. With the added
strength of this compound it is possible to leave it a little
loose in certain areas so field stripping is possible without
damage. Sometimes one or two shots may be needed to fully settle
it back down into the bedding before you regain maximum accuracy
but not very often. I've never missed a prairie dog yet that I
could blame on the bedding. I have so much confidence in my
bedding procedures that they are guaranteed for the life of the
barrel to maintain accuracy. *M-14
GAS CYLINDER UNITIZING (WELDED) *REBARRELING
*CUSTOM BUILDS FOR ANYTHING FROM HUNTING TO A MILITARY SNIPER
RIFLE *NEW STOCKS, MCMILLAN, JAE-100,
SEVERAL GRADES OF WALNUT HAND MADE TO PERFECTION
*CMP AND JCG MATCH REWORKING This is just
a short list to highlight some of the things we do. Take a look
around at the site and for prices click the link above for
gunsmithing price list. If you don't see what you are looking
for then please call. This is the only place you need to go to
keep your rifles running right.
We don't use off the shelf factory made stocks
for our rifles. These are not Boyds. These are custom made one
at a time to true military patterns using the best woods
available. They are not oversized and will fit like a glove. We
put a lot of attention to detail into our stocks just as you
would expect. Only the finest will get my stamp on it.
QUALITY IS OUR TOP PRIORITY.
QUALITY WORK TAKES QUALITY TIME.


The rifle above is one of our semi fancy American walnut stocks


These three are a semi fancy grade English walnut. I stained
this one a little darker than normal by customer request so the
figure doesn't show as much with the camera but still, anywhere
is goes it will be a real head turner!

The crown is one of the most important parts of making a rifle
shoot accurately. We face off and put a .45 degree muzzle on all
of our rifles. If you have a CMP rifle or yours has just seen
better days then send it to me to have yours redone. Don't be
fooled into having another type of crown done on your M-1 or
M-14. If you clean it from the front it needs the military 45
degree crown. It's just as accurate as the now popular 11 degree
target crown but much less prone to damage.


Normally the English walnuts I leave unstained to really
highlight the grain like the one that is 2nd from the right
above. The stock on the right is a extra fancy Claro walnut that
has tons of figure and fiddle back throughout. I really wish I
was good enough with a camera to show it off.
Most of these fancier grades of wood will start about 550.00 and
can go as high as 800.00 in some cases. These were all in the
600 dollar price range after fitting and finishing but it really
depends on the piece of wood. If you are looking for something
to pass down to your kids then one like these is the way to go. |